A disclaimer: These observations are not meant to imply that taking the ferry to and from Alaska isn’t a great trip, because traveling on the Alaska Marine Highway is something I think everyone should do at least once.
Traveling Alaska’s Inside Passage, on a ferry built in 1963, helps drive home the concept of literally stepping back in time. The surrounding mountains and forests are still pristine and mostly untouched, services and amenities are simple yet refreshingly unpretentious, and it’s a great excuse to talk to people, or catch up on some reading.
When we left Juneau on the ferry four days ago, I was still in full-on “go” mode. In record time, we’d packed up our apartment, Scotty had finished our mini-van/ camper to be road-trip ready, and in our “spare time” hung out with good friends before we left. Finally on board, we would be able to immediately relax. Or so I thought.
In warmer months, it's popular for passengers who haven't reserved a private cabin to sleep outside on deck in the solarium, a sheltered area with small space heaters on the ceiling, But in winter, it's a different story; traveling by ferry without a private cabin this time of year isn’t exactly a picnic. In retrospect, I’d admit that even for a cheapskate like me, the $308 dollars for the smallest cabin without a window is probably worth the money, especially split between two people.
Even though we have our mini-van we plan to sleep in for the majority of our road trip across the country, it’s against the rules to stay below in the car deck (though I’d be willing to bet a few people get away with it from time to time, especially those with larger campers). But even if we wanted to, it would be kind of cramped to hide out in our little rig, to say the least.
Instead, Scotty and I have essentially been “backpacking” on the ferry, lugging around a large pack each with sleeping bags and mats, toiletries, and near mealtimes, a food bag. In addition, I have my purse and another small bag with the laptop and other odds and ends, like power cords and a few magazines. There are only three opportunities to go down to the car deck each day for 15 minutes, at 8:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 8:30 p.m. It’s time allotted to safely exchange gear and visit pets that must be left in vehicles. People walk their dogs, trying to coax them into doing their business indoors after a lifetime of the opposite. And I’d be willing to bet that most of the people traveling this way
do have dogs, because as pet-less people, Scotty and I definitely seem to be the minority.
Besides having to keep us with our things on board, acceptable sleeping areas for those without a cabin make for a bit of a competition among passengers. Limited tables in the main sleeping lounge mean that those get staked out right away, with people keeping their stuff there for the
entire trip. If this sounds annoying, it is, especially if you did not stake one out in time. Scotty and I did, however, find a decent enough row of chairs to claim, and there we will keep our things for the next 24 hours. ;)
With our sleeping stuff being used as a spot-holder, we bring only valuables with us when we move around, go to the cafeteria or the bathroom. Yesterday, after a brief stop in Ketchikan, an announcement informed us that someone’s wallet had gone “missing”. Scotty shook his head and cocked an eyebrow. “Honey, there’s a thief among us,” he quipped. Sadly, even on a nice, safe ferry, this stuff happens. By nature, we’re bound to get distracted in unfamiliar environments and it’s a useful reminder that even if someone won’t outright rob you, an unattended valuable might as well have a free sign stuck on it for some people.
None of this is meant to dissuade you from traveling this way and I know I’d do it again, given the opportunity. But I have to admit, I might be getting a little old for three-day long sleepovers in the common room.
Next up, port stops in Sitka and Ketchikan!
