Dominican Republic: Zona Colonial

There aren't very many road signs in Santo Domingo, and quite a bit of traffic: a bad combination anywhere when you have no idea where you're going, but especially in the DR. As our cabbie navigated some close calls, several people running across the highway, and congested bridge entrances, I was really happy not to have to worry about a rental car.

View from our hotel balcony in Santo Domingo

Even though we didn't get our rental car as planned, taking a taxi turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Though I'd procured some directions to the hotel, they were more of the sort that consisted of landmarks, "turn left after you cross the bridge and right by the big square", that are way to subject to interpretation (i.e."Was that a bridge?"). We would have been hopelessly lost. Lesson re-learned: it's much better to get your bearings in a foreign place before you attempt to drive.

We traveled West for about twenty-five minutes before arriving in the neighborhood colloquially called the "Zona Colonial" or "Cuidad Colonial". We passed by what looked like a very old mission building, which I later learned was the "Catedral de Santa Mariá la Menor" known as the oldest cathedral in the Americas (completed in 1540!).

 La Catedral de Santá Maria la Menor

An adjacent plaza appeared a gathering place for both locals and tourists with several open-air cafés and some large trees near park benches.

Hotel Restaurante El Conde on the edge of La Plaza de Las Americas

Our cab driver quickly found the hotel for us, after a few turns and twists down tiny one-way streets and getting directions from a passerby, in Spanish, of course. By the time he brought us right to the hotel's front door, the ride had been well worth the $40.

Street view from the hotel room balcony

The hotel we were staying at the first two nights in Santo Domingo, Hotel Atarazana, was one I found through its listing on Trip Advisor. At the front door, open to the hall but secured with a barred gate, we rang the bell and were intercepted by a young man who greeted us warmly in Spanish, asked if we spoke the language, and when I replied, "a little", he proceeded to explain about the hotel and give us a short tour. He was so nice and professional that I felt completely at ease, even though I wished my Spanish were a lot better at that point.

He told us breakfast was served each morning in the dining area, which was a beautiful, open garden-like area in the center of the hotel, and that we were to pay upon leaving. We were also given an electronic key and a code to get in and out of the hotel's gated front door.

View from our hotel room balcony

Hotel Atarazana turned out to be a completely lovely small hotel, with two stories and only six rooms, and a rooftop deck to hang out on.

Rooftop deck at Hotel Atarazana in Santo Domingo

With its high ceilings, natural decor, immaculate housekeeping, we were pretty pleased. The room stepped out to a very small balcony with just enough room to for two people to sit. The bathroom was just a regular hotel bathroom with a simple shower (no bathtub), toilet, and sink.

But at this point, we were VERY tired and hungry. So we showered, changed out of our travel clothes and ventured out into the evening dusk.

After some time walking around a bit lost, despite the map the hotel had provided, we managed to find the main square we had driven past and decided on a café with outdoor seating. It appeared to be quite the popular place; so popular we had to sit inside at a table near the wide upon entrance so it was almost like being outside anyway.

A daytime view of what became our standby eatery in Santo Domingo, Hotel Restaurante El Conde

Our dinner consisted of sharing a shrimp cocktail, a salad with a side of avocado, and some fried cheese  curds and a few local beers. Afterwards, we took a slightly different route back to our hotel and happened upon a musical performance set up on a stage in another square. Christmas decorations were still up and a lively group of all ages had formed to clap along to the singers.

Just before going to bed that night at the hotel, I stepped out onto our balcony. I could feel my muscles begin to relax in the tropical night air, a musical beat still dribbling across from the square, when in the street below, a small pickup truck suddenly pulled up in front the hotel and attempted to wedge itself into a parking spot that nearly equal it's length.

"Seriously?"

I watched as the driver back it up again and again into a tiny car parked behind it, lifting up the bumper until both were flush with the curb. When the driver got out, he admired his work, then walked towards the police station in uniform (yep, he was a cop).

Later on, another car actually hit the concrete wall and bottomed out. I heard a girl shriek from inside it, then saw her get out to check for damage, before she hopped back in and they drove on. And I wondered what exactly we had gotten ourselves into this time...

Next up: our continued pursuit of a rental car and a pilgrimage the beach in Las Terrenas on the Samaná Peninsula.